.Siena, Tuscany Italy

The palio is the banner awarded as the prize on a horse race. The festivities, which date from the 13C, are the most famous of their kind in Italy and are a splendid sight. The race is held twice a year on 2 July and 16 August but only 10 "contrade" take part in each competition so the 17 have to take it in turn to participate. During the days of preparation intrigue is rife and betting is heavy. The streets are draped in the colours of each "contrada", young people practise throwing the flag, the edge of the Piazza del Campo is covered with sand to form the race track and dangerous corners are protected with mattresses. The outer edge is lined with tiers of seats but the centre, from which anybody can watch the race free of charge, is left open. Feelings run very high in the last two days before the race when there is a solemn drawing of lots in the Campo to see which horses are assigned to the participating "contrade". The animals are then carefully prepared; doping is allowed. If a horse dies, the "contrada" that it represented has to retire from the race but its standard, set at half-mast, is entitled to take part in the opening procession and the horse's hooves are solemnly carried on a silver tray. The jockeys (fantini) are accommodated within the contrade and watched day and night to ensure that they are not paid by a competitor to lose the race.

On the morning of the race a Mass is said in the church of each contrada and horse and rider are blessed. In the afternoon there is a lavish procession around the Campo involving all the represent-

actives of the 17 contrade dressed in 15 Century costume and carrying their emblems while the flag-bearers (alfieri) brandish their pennants with great skill. Behind them come six black horses mounted by riders in mourning in memory of six contrade which no longer exist - Viper, Rooster, Oak Tree, Sword, Bear and Lion - and which were probably taken over by more powerful contrade. At the very end of the procession is the triumphal chariot, built according to the design of the ancient carroccio. The town guard of crossbowmen brings up the rear.

The high spot of the festival occurs at the end of the afternoon when

the famous "corsa al palio" is run. This is a dangerous horse race in which no holds are barred and it is ali over within a matter of minutes, the time it takes the jockeys to ride bareback three times round the Campo.

The winner receives the banner (palio) of the day, hence the name of the race; the banner bears a representation of the Virgin Mary which is painted by a leading artist especially for the occasion. After the race all the "contrade" continue the festivities in their streets and community centres where the dinner may be an occasion for feasting or bitterness depending on the result